From Villa O’Higgins to El Chaltén
In one of Patagonia’s most remote corners, where Chile and Argentina meet among mountains, glaciers, and astonishingly blue lakes, one of South America’s most memorable journeys begins: the route connecting Villa O’Higgins with El Chaltén.
This expedition links Chile’s Carretera Austral with the land of Mount Fitz Roy, combining two scenic boat crossings with a 21-kilometer overland journey between Candelario Mancilla and Lago del Desierto. Every year, cyclists and backpackers set out on this adventure between November and April, when the border crossings are open..
Stage 1: Sailing from Villa O’Higgins to Candelario Mancilla
The adventure begins at Bahía Bahamondes pier, located at kilometer 1,247 and recognized as the final point of the Carretera Austral.
From here, a boat takes you on an approximately 90-minute journey across the magnificent O’Higgins–San Martín Lake, shared by Chile and Argentina and considered one of the deepest lakes in the Americas.
Once on board, they can enjoy a hot coffee as the landscape unfolds between mountains and fjords, before arriving at Candelario Mancilla, one of the most isolated and remarkable places in Chilean Patagonia.
The Chilean border checkpoint is located here and you must complete the required exit formalities before continuing into Argentina.
Sailing Schedule
* Bahía Bahamondes to Candelario Mancilla: departure at 8:00 a.m.
* November and December: Mondays and Thursdays.
* January and February: Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.
* March and April: Mondays and Thursdays.
* Candelario Mancilla to Bahía Bahamondes: return departure at 4:30 p.m. on the same days and during the same seasons.
Listed fare: CLP 65,000 per passenger, approximately USD 70. Bicycle transportation is included at no additional cost.
Recommendations:
The exit permit, or salvoconducto, must be completed online before departing from Villa O’Higgins.
Since July 2025, travelers must present proof of insurance at the Argentine border checkpoint near Lago del Desierto.
Check the route:
Requirements and Documentation
* Valid ID: Carry a valid national identity card or passport in good condition.
* PDI Travel Permit: Apply online in advance—ideally at least 24 hours before departure—through the Chilean Investigative Police (PDI) platform or PDI Virtual.
Accommodation options are available in Candelario Mancilla:
* Estancia Santa Teresita campground.
* Surí capsules or micro-shelters (With special discounts for Austral Bikes riders)
* Candelario Mancilla Guesthouse.
Stage 2: The Journey from Candelario Mancilla to Lago del Desierto
From Candelario Mancilla, a 21-kilometer route crosses from Chile into Argentina via the Route of the Glaciers and the Dos Lagunas Pass. It is a demanding journey, but every effort is rewarded with forests, rivers, mountains, and the first views of the imposing Fitz Roy.
First Section: Candelario Mancilla to the Border Marker — 16 Kilometers
The first 16 kilometers follow a public gravel road with a moderate incline. During the opening kilometers, the route climbs steadily while offering panoramic views of O’Higgins Lake and the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.
Near kilometer 6, the terrain begins to level out. When the sky is clear, Fitz Roy appears on the horizon. Before reaching the marker that defines the border between Chile and Argentina, the route passes an old airstrip and crosses two wooden bridges.
Second Section: Border Marker to the Northern Shore of Lago del Desierto — 5.4 Kilometers
Once inside Argentina, the trail descends through a dense and humid forest. This section features small rivers, muddy areas, exposed roots, and bridges made from logs.
Along the descent, travelers can see Laguna Larga and stop at a natural viewpoint overlooking Lago del Desierto. The trail ends at the Argentine border checkpoint and ferry dock.
Because of limited maintenance and rapidly changing weather, the trail can be rough and extremely muddy. It is a challenging section, but also one of the most authentic experiences of the entire journey.
Stage 3: Sailing Across Lago del Desierto and Continuing to El Chaltén
From the northern shore, an approximately 45-minute boat journey crosses Lago del Desierto. Along the way, waterfalls, glaciers, and towering Patagonian peaks dominate the scenery.
Sailing Schedule
* Departures operate every day except Wednesdays, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day.
* The service runs until April 15.
* Departure times: 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.
* Boats operate in both directions: north to south, from Chile toward Argentina, and south to north, from Argentina toward Chile.
The listed fare is CLP 40,000 per passenger, plus CLP 20,000 for the bicycle, for an approximate total of USD 60.
